Saturday, February 16, 2013
Wednesday, January 27, 2010
Swatches, STS, and WPI
This isn't a technique rather a place where I can keep record of the stitches produced by swatches so I don't have to keep doing them. 8-P
LionBrand, Classic Wool
Fetching Fingerless Mitts Gauge calls for 21x30. I doubt I'll come closer than that using size 4 needles. My finished length should 5/16 shorter than the pattern indicates.
Vanna's Choice, Denim Mist (4"= 16STS x 22R, size 9). My swatches on Boye circulars:
I made a WPI tool (wraps per inch) to try to use to help swap yarns for patterns. It looks pretty good too! Hopefully I've used the tool appropriately and the 10 wpi is correct for this yarn.
The project I'm wanted to knit, Raspberry Bed Socks, calls for a different yarn with a gauge of 24sts and 32 rows = 4". I'm thinking it's nearly impossible to get that gauge from this yarn. So I need to either pick a different weight yarn (DK/fingering) or choose another pattern. I think I'll choose another pattern.
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Bernat Berella 4 - WPI = 11
CROCHET: A 6" x 6" swatch in SC on a size H hook used 35 yards of yarn
KNIT: A 7 1/2" x 7 1/2" swatch in STST on size 8 needles used 35 1/3 yards of yarn
Bernat Alpaca - Natural Blends
Size 10 needle - 15st, 20r = 4"
WINTUK, Caron
Skein gauge = 18st x 24 = 4" on size 8
- Size 4 needles for 4" = 21sts and 28rows. The Gauge worked as if in the round.
Fetching Fingerless Mitts Gauge calls for 21x30. I doubt I'll come closer than that using size 4 needles. My finished length should 5/16 shorter than the pattern indicates.
Vanna's Choice, Denim Mist (4"= 16STS x 22R, size 9). My swatches on Boye circulars:
- size 6 stst = 17STS / 24R
- size 7 stst = 17STS / 23.75R
- size 8 stst = 16STS / 22R
- size 9 stst = 15STS / 22R
- size 10 stst = 14.5STS / 20.5R
I made a WPI tool (wraps per inch) to try to use to help swap yarns for patterns. It looks pretty good too! Hopefully I've used the tool appropriately and the 10 wpi is correct for this yarn.
The project I'm wanted to knit, Raspberry Bed Socks, calls for a different yarn with a gauge of 24sts and 32 rows = 4". I'm thinking it's nearly impossible to get that gauge from this yarn. So I need to either pick a different weight yarn (DK/fingering) or choose another pattern. I think I'll choose another pattern.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bernat Berella 4 - WPI = 11
CROCHET: A 6" x 6" swatch in SC on a size H hook used 35 yards of yarn
KNIT: A 7 1/2" x 7 1/2" swatch in STST on size 8 needles used 35 1/3 yards of yarn
The swatch was a 28 st cast on.
Gauge: 4" = 15 sts and 22 rows
Knit: size 5 swatch - 18st = 4"
- 28 rows = 4"
------------------------------------------------------------------------------Bernat Alpaca - Natural Blends
Size 10 needle - 15st, 20r = 4"
Size 9 needle ---13st, 18r = 4"
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------WINTUK, Caron
Skein gauge = 18st x 24 = 4" on size 8
My Swatch = 18x26.5 = 4" on size 6 (needlemaster)
Good density on size 6 for me
Tuesday, November 24, 2009
Diagonal cloths
These are my notes for the discloths I've listed. the number in [ ] is for a smaller SKP pattern in the middle.
Do not pull the first st of every row tightly or it will cause the cloth to curl.
CO 3
K1FB (4)
K across
K2 YO K to end (5)
K2 YO K to end (6)
keep knitting and adding one YO after the first 2 sts of every row until you have 23 [27] stitches.
Then introduce middle SKP pattern...
Keep increasing as above, but the pattern changes for the odd# stitch rows to K2 YO K9 [11] SKP (repeats) K last 10 [12] sts.
On the even# sts rows do the regular K2 YO K to end.
Keep increasing with SKP pattern until 55 sts are on the needles.
Now it's time to decrease.
The pattern changes and every row now begins with K1 SSK YO SSK.
The even# st rows are knitted across after the beginning.
The odd# st rows are now worked as K1 SSK YO SSK K8 [10] SKP (repeats) K last 12 [14]
When only 6 stitches remain...
K1, SSK, SSK, K1 (4 sts)
Sewn BO
Do not pull the first st of every row tightly or it will cause the cloth to curl.
CO 3
K1FB (4)
K across
K2 YO K to end (5)
K2 YO K to end (6)
keep knitting and adding one YO after the first 2 sts of every row until you have 23 [27] stitches.
Then introduce middle SKP pattern...
Keep increasing as above, but the pattern changes for the odd# stitch rows to K2 YO K9 [11] SKP (repeats) K last 10 [12] sts.
On the even# sts rows do the regular K2 YO K to end.
Keep increasing with SKP pattern until 55 sts are on the needles.
Now it's time to decrease.
The pattern changes and every row now begins with K1 SSK YO SSK.
The even# st rows are knitted across after the beginning.
The odd# st rows are now worked as K1 SSK YO SSK K8 [10] SKP (repeats) K last 12 [14]
When only 6 stitches remain...
K1, SSK, SSK, K1 (4 sts)
Sewn BO
Monday, September 7, 2009
Crochet tab purse
964 tabs
Purse Body (800 tabs)
20 tabs in column
40 tabs around
Connect beginning ending to form in a tube
Bottom (46 tabs)
Construct a double row 23 tabs long
SC around the bottom piece.
With bag inside out pin bottom evenly to bag.
SC to attach.
Strap (118 tabs)
Attach 1 tab to the bog then the other; work the strap from this point.
The length of the strap will equal 59 tabs and 2 tabs wide. SC around strap
Purse Body (800 tabs)
20 tabs in column
40 tabs around
Connect beginning ending to form in a tube
Bottom (46 tabs)
Construct a double row 23 tabs long
SC around the bottom piece.
With bag inside out pin bottom evenly to bag.
SC to attach.
Strap (118 tabs)
Attach 1 tab to the bog then the other; work the strap from this point.
The length of the strap will equal 59 tabs and 2 tabs wide. SC around strap
Saturday, January 3, 2009
LPC RPC LC RC???
I've just ran across these abreviations and am figuring them out. I did find this explanation given for a specific pattern. I'm still investigating.
1/1 RPC = 1 st crossing over 1 st to the right, with the st underneath purled
1/1 LPC = 1 st crossing over 1 st to the left, with the st underneath purled
These cables are each worked using 3 sts:
2/1 RPC = 2 sts crossing over 1 st to the right, with the st underneath purled
2/1 LPC = 2 sts crossing over 1 st to the left, with the st underneath purled
2/1 RC = 2 sts crossing over 1 st to the right, all sts knit
2/1 LC = 2 sts crossing over 1 st to the left, all sts knit
-----------------------
Then I found this: The Definition for "2/1 RPC" given in the back in the book is incorrect; it should read:Slip 1 to cable needle and hold to back, K2, P1 from cable needle.
I'm asking for help on KnittingHelp now.... LOL
1/1 RPC = 1 st crossing over 1 st to the right, with the st underneath purled
1/1 LPC = 1 st crossing over 1 st to the left, with the st underneath purled
These cables are each worked using 3 sts:
2/1 RPC = 2 sts crossing over 1 st to the right, with the st underneath purled
2/1 LPC = 2 sts crossing over 1 st to the left, with the st underneath purled
2/1 RC = 2 sts crossing over 1 st to the right, all sts knit
2/1 LC = 2 sts crossing over 1 st to the left, all sts knit
-----------------------
Then I found this: The Definition for "2/1 RPC" given in the back in the book is incorrect; it should read:Slip 1 to cable needle and hold to back, K2, P1 from cable needle.
I'm asking for help on KnittingHelp now.... LOL
Sampler Squares
- Diamonds and Bobbles- I eliminated the bottom and top borders and did an extra repeat of the pattern beginning at row 20. CO 41; 65 Rows.
- Tree of Life Square- I did 3 rows of knit before starting the pattern and ended with 3 rows of knit after the pattern. CO 40; 64 Rows.
Sunday, September 28, 2008
My Video: Inside Out Double Knitting
This is a video I put together to help out a fellow knitter having difficulty understanding how I make the Mother Bears using inside out double knitting. Yes, it's way too long and very boring if you aren't a knitter and I threw it together on one "take". But, if you are a knitter, this might be very helpful! Don't forget that double knitting creates a looser fabric so you'll want to go down like 2 needle sizes.
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